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Proper grass cutting height of your lawn in Wadsworth Ohio

One of the easiest ways to promote a healthy and happy lawn is to practice proper mowing habits. Also known as proper cultural practices. We recommend you follow these cultural practices.

Always Keep Mowing High

The ideal mowing height for Fescue is 3.5-4 inches. We recommend always keeping the mower deck at the highest possible setting on your lawn mower. Check the mowing height by placing a ruler in your lawn and measure the grass from the soil to the tip of the leaf blade right after it is mowed. Mowing tall makes a thicker lawn and creates deep roots for the turf. More leaf material results in superior photosynthesis and allows the grass to fully mature and create more roots in the soil. Also a thick and tall lawn will drastically reduce weed competition.

Sharp Mower Blades

It is also important to be sure the lawn mower always has sharp blades. Mowing with a dull blades will result in shredded leaf blades. This causes the lawn to have a tan or brown hue. It can also stress the turf, which may lead to further more severe issues. Monitor the sharpness of the blades often and sharpen or replace the blade when needed. This can be done by yourself or by a professional mower shop.

Timing Your Mowing

Fescue is a cool-season grass in Wadsworth Ohio. This means most of the growth occurs during the spring and fall months during the season. Mowing frequency will need to increase during those times of the year. It is very important to mow often enough to ensure that no more than one-third of the grass blade is removed at a time. Removing too much leaf material at once can damage the plant. Fescue will not be growing as rapidly during the summer. Mowing frequency should be reduced to an as needed during the summer. During a wet summer it could still need to be mowed frequently

Changing the Mowing Pattern

It's important to change your mowing pattern to reduce compaction of the soil. Riding mowers, while convenient, are heavy and will continually to compact the soil. In less compacted soils, turf roots grow deeper and are less susceptible to heat stress and disease since the water can penetrate deeper into the roots.

 

If you would like to improve your lawn in Wadsworth OH with proper fertilization, weed control or aeration. Feel free to contact Akron Canton Lawn care today for a free quote.

DIY versus Hiring a Lawn Service in North Canton Ohio

We have all watched how to videos and thought, “I could do that.”

But for most of us, once you figure out all the time, effort, skill, materials and equipment you will need for the project, you may start to wonder if you need to hire a professional lawn care provider.

 

When it comes to turf management for your lawn, think about what all it will take to have a pristine, lush property and if you are up for the challenge. There’s more to lawn care than just buying 5 bags of weed and feed a tear if you want a good looking lawn.

There is a long list of things to do the growing season in your limited off time. Plus all of these tasks require certain skills and equipment.

So, should you hire a North Canton OH lawn care company or do the work yourself? Here’s some information to help you to better make that decision.

When You Can Handle The Work Yourself

There are many people like us who just love being outside and working on lawns.

If you do not mind getting dirty, spending time on your property and already have a garage full of equipment, doing your lawn care work yourself might make the most sense for you.

 

You have a green thumb and want to use it, then maybe go ahead and DIY. You might be able to save a little money if you don’t need to purchase any tools or machines and know exactly what fertilizers, weed control and pest products you need. Along with the proper knowledge on how to spread, spray, mix and apply.

 

Hiring a North Canton OH Lawn Care Company

Sometimes, it’s best to turn the work over to the professionals, especially if you don’t want to spend your weekends pushing a spreader and toting around a sprayer.

You aren’t just paying the lawn care company for their material, work and time — although those are major factors.

The cost also covers other components you may not think about and would have to pay for if you did it yourself

  • Fuel
  • Commercial-grade equipment and tools
  • Regular equipment maintenance
  • Materials
  • Experience, which can prevent injuries and improve property with proper applications

The positives to hiring a North Canton Ohio lawn care company are that they handle everything for you, know what your property needs (how to handle weeds, disease, plants, etc.) and will finish the work quicker than you could.

 

A professional applicator will also know the proper time to apply chemicals and fertilizers. If you forget and miss germination times on geographically prevalent weeds, you could be wasting your time and money on pre-emergent products.

Also, if you use the wrong one or too much of the post-emergent chemical, you could kill the grass or not kill the weeds at all. That’s why having a professional can be very important.

What Is Your Time Worth?

It all comes down to what you value.

You might be able to save a few dollars doing the work yourself, but in the long run, it could end up being more expensive once you factor in your time and the equipment you will need. Many times hiring a pro can be less than what you will pay for the products alone since they buy in such high volume.

Instead of spending all of your time and effort working on your lawn, start enjoying it by hiring a professional lawn care company in North Canton OH.

Akron Canton Lawn Care has an experienced team who will handle all of your lawn care and maintenance needs. We offer commercial and residential services, including pest treatments, fertilization, weed control, lawn aeration and overseeding. Feel free to contact us today for a free no obligation quote for your lawn care.

When turf grass emerges from winter, so will dandelions in Hinckley Ohio

When trees, shrubs and lawns emerge from winter unfortunately, so have the stubborn weeds, which often plague a property. One of the most common broadleaf weed the dandelion.

Many people are not aware that they are in fact edible and very nutritious. They contain Vitamin A, E, K, B6, B2, B1, and C and can make a wonderful addition to your salad.

But for most homeowners  they’re nothing but a nuisance weed.

What are dandelions?

Dandelions are considered a broadleaf perennial capable of growing in almost any soil found in a lawn. This common weed has a very long taproot that can grow several feet in the soil and emerge in the spring.

As the season progresses, so will dandelions. The yellow flower blooms into a white puffball containing the dandelion seeds. The slightest breeze allows the seeds to travel through the air and spread into different areas of your lawn and around the neighborhood. This makes it challenging to completely eliminate dandelions altogether.

Eliminating dandelions

Dandelions typically will disappear in the fall in Hinckley Ohio, but the long taproot allows it to survive through the winter and come back to life in the spring. It is important to remove both the plant and the entire root system so the cycle does not continue.

Although there are plenty of ways to treat and combat dandelions on your property.

Spot spraying with a herbicide designed to control broadleaf weeds is one of the most common methods for controlling dandelions in the lawn. Keep in mind, homeowners should always read the manufacturer’s instructions and cautions before applying any weed control product. Proper mixing is vital for an accurate application that will work effectively and not harm the turf grass.

A thick and healthy lawn – Keeping your lawn thick and healthy is another way to keep dandelions and other weeds out of your turf. The healthier your lawn is, the more difficult it is for weeds to germinate and grow.

Mowing over dandelions before they bloom can help prevent dandelion seeds from spreading across your lawn and neighborhood.

Hand pulling may seem like a solution, but it’s a tedious and time-consuming method for controlling dandelions that generally does not work. If you do not remove the entire root system, you will not only waste time, but you’ll be back to square one.

 

If you need help controlling dandelions in your lawn feel free to contact Akron Canton Lawn Care for a free quote in Hinckley OH.

Why are winterizer applications important for Fairlawn Ohio?

Winterizer

A winter fertilizer application is considered to be the second most important, or sometimes the most important treatment for your lawn. This application is done in  fall, typically Late October through early December. A winter fertilizer application should be a mix of slow release and fast release nitrogen. A fast release fertilizer will help to build carbohydrates into the lawn now to promote repair work on summer damage that occurred, while a slow release will continue to assist the lawn throughout winter to help feed in the harsh months. Winter fertilization applications will also promote a quicker green up in spring when you have the Winter blues.

 

Protect the lawn from harsh winter conditions.

As the weather gets colder, the lawn goes into a protective mode against the temperatures, frost and frozen precipitation so the blades grow very slow, can turn brown and get a little hardier as it prepare for dormancy. Under the soil, it is a different story. The root system keeps growing and becomes thicker, stronger, and deeper into the soil. Some of the best root growth your lawn will experience will be during the winter months. The better the root system the turf has, the better the chances it will withstand drought, stress and disease during next years summer months in Fairlawn.

A winter fertilizer assists and strengthens the continuously growing root system during the winter. The lawn will try to repair itself from damage done during the summer during the fall season. Drought, heat and disease take quite a toll on the lawn and cause serious damage to the turf, so it is important to get extra carbohydrates to the root system. Carbohydrates help protect the lawn from damage and disease that can be done in the winter months.

To sum it up, a winter fertilizer application is one of the most important things you can do for your lawn. Whether it is to help rebuild after a long hot Fairlawn Ohio summer or just to prepare for a quicker green up in the spring, carbohydrate building winter fertilization is always the answer.

 

Interested in a Winterizer Application?

Call Akron Canton Lawn Care Now for your Free Estimate on any of our lawn care services (330) 933-2222 or click the Contact Us button to send us an email.

Canal Fulton, Ohio Grass Species

All About Turf Grass Species in Ohio

Turfgrasses are fine textured grass species that form a uniform, persistent population of plants and that tolerate traffic and a variety of mowing heights. These grasses can be divided into two groups, the cool season and the warm season turfgrasses.

 

Cool season turfgrasses- include species that are adapted to the cooler portions of the United States and make maximum growth during cool spring and fall. They may become semi dormant during hot and dry periods of summer. Cool season grasses adapted for turf use in Ohio include Kentucky bluegrass, rough bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, the fine fescues, tall fescue, and the bentgrasses.

 

Warm season turfgrasses- include species that are best adapted to southern areas of the United States. Some of the warm-season turfgrasses also are adapted to the transitional regions between the northern and the southern states. These grasses make maximum growth during hot weather and are dormant during winter, and early spring. Zoysiagrass is the only warm season turfgrass that has sufficient winter hardiness to survive and persist as high quality turf in the southern-most portions of Ohio.

Adaptation

Turfgrass species vary in their adaptation to soil moisture, temperatures, soil fertility, pH levels, disease and insect resistance, wear tolerance, and mowing tolerance. They may also vary in such characteristics as leaf texture, color, growth habit, density, growth, and uniformity. Considerable variation in these attributes can also occur within an individual grass species. Turf grasses which exhibit different characteristics from other members of the same species are called varieties or cultivars.

Characteristics that plant breeders search for or incorporate into turfgrasses may include improved tolerances to climates, increased tolerance to reduced fertility levels, resistance to diseases and insects, and better wear and mowing tolerances. Breeders also search for plants that exhibit medium to fine leaf textures, an aesthetically pleasing color, a decumbent growth habit, increased recuperative potential, good density, & uniformity. Ability to produce good seed yields is also an important consideration in developing improved turfgrass species.

Varieties

  • Kentucky Bluegrass (Poa pratensis)

Kentucky bluegrass is a persistent and attractive species that is used in many residential home lawns, institutional grounds, parks, and athletic fields. This species has a medium to fine leaf texture and a medium to dark-green color when it is properly fertilized. It produces extensive underground stems, called rhizomes, which provide good sod forming characteristics and superior recuperative potential when compared to most other cool season species. Kentucky bluegrass is cold tolerant, traffic tolerant, and moderately heat and drought tolerant. It makes optimum growth during the spring and fall and becomes semi-dormant under prolonged periods of heat stress and drought. It usually recovers quickly from dormancy with the advent of cooler temperatures and adequate soil moisture in the turf.

Kentucky bluegrass performs the best when grown in well drained soils and open, sunny areas. This grass does not tolerate poorly-drained soils or heavily-shaded conditions.

Kentucky bluegrass generally requires a higher amount of nitrogen than other cool-season turfgrasses and tends to produce a significant amount of thatch. The germination and establishment period for Kentucky bluegrass is slower than for most other turfgrasses, requiring up to two weeks for emergence from the soil.

Some of the more damaging diseases that Kentucky bluegrass can get are leaf spot, dollar spot, stripe smut, necrotic ring spot, and summer patch.

Some commercial seed lots have 'common Kentucky bluegrass' printed on the label. Common Kentucky bluegrass is a non pedigree form consisting of many genetically different types. An upright grower, it is very sensitive to low mowing heights and very susceptible to leafspot diseases. Unfortunately, seed laws permit named varieties of Kentucky bluegrass to be sold as common Kentucky bluegrass for turf. Some named varieties develop turf inferior to that of non pedigreed Kentucky bluegrass but are extremely high seed yielders. For this reason, some seed producers grow and do market named varieties as common Kentucky bluegrass.

  • Rough Bluegrass (Poa trivialis)

Rough bluegrass is similar to Kentucky bluegrass in appearance, however, it has a lighter green color and produces above ground stems called stolons that allow it to spread and generate new tillers in the soil. It is a highly shade tolerant species that prefers mostly moist soils. It is used for lawns with shaded conditions where there is adequate or excess moisture. When used in well drained, open, and sunny areas, it normally will decline during the hot, dry months of the summer but may recover in cool, wet weather.

Because of its light-green color and tendency to form patches, it's generally not used for mixtures with other Canal Fulton turfgrasses.

  • Perennial Ryegrass (Lolium perenne)

Perennial ryegrass is a persistent, dark-green, fine to medium textured turfgrass that is used for residential home lawns, parks, grounds, golf courses, and athletic fields. This species produces a bunch type growth habit & does not form rhizomes. Its recuperative potential is not as strong as Kentucky bluegrass will be for turf. Perennial ryegrass germinates rapidly and establishes quickly. It is very competitive with other turfgrasses and is used extensively for overseeding thin or damaged areas. Because of its aggressive nature, perennial ryegrass is generally not used in amounts over 20 percent in a mixture with other grasses. It is suitable for use alone or in combination with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues.

Perennial ryegrasses is wear tolerant and very heat tolerant. It is only moderately tolerant of shade or drought. This species will withstand low temperatures, however, it tends to be susceptible to ice damage in the winter. Perennial ryegrass performs best on moderate to high fertility soils and well drained soils.

Improved varieties of perennial ryegrass have good characteristics for mowing, although some may have leaves that shred and form a gray cast when cut with dull mower blades.

When grown in infertile soils or on soils of low pH, ryegrass may become thin and very clumpy. Thatch forms in perennial ryegrass turf is slower than with Kentucky bluegrass and the fine fescues.

The diseases found and are most damaging to perennial ryegrass include brown patch, Pythium blight, dollar spot, red thread, and rust. Perhaps the most significant improvement in perennial ryegrass within the past few years has been the development of varieties with enhanced endophyte performance. Endophytes, in this case, are beneficial fungi that will reside within the seed and grow and persist in the developing plant. Endophytes produce compounds that discourage leaf and stem feeding insects from destroying the grass. Ryegrasses containing endophytes have shown significant increased resistance to sod webworms, billbugs, fall armyworms, chinch bugs, and green bugs.

  • The Fine Fescues (Festuca spp.)
    • Creeping Red Fescue - Festuca rubra
    • Chewings Fescue - Festuca rubra var. commutata
    • Hard Fescue - Festuca longifolia
    • Sheep Fescue - Festuca ovina


The fine fescues are composed of narrow leaved species in the genus Festuca. The most common grass type fine fescues include creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra), Chewings fescue ( Festuca rubra var. commutata), hard fescue (Festuca longifolia), and sheep fescue (Festuca ovina). These species are used extensively for residential lawns, grounds, and parks. They are ideal for low maintenance turfs, but, are not typically used for sporting turfs. During cool weather the fine fescues produce an attractive, uniform stand with a medium-green to dark-green color. These grasses are extremely fine textured and are compatible in mixtures of most cool season grasses. As a group, the fine fescues tolerate soils of low fertility and low pH, drought prone soils, and shaded conditions. They are not well adapted to hot and humid conditions; poorly drained soils; high-traffic areas such as athletic fields or playgrounds; and high rates of nitrogen. Kentucky bluegrass, the fine fescues become semi dormant under prolonged periods of heat and drought and recover very quickly with the advent of cooler temperatures and adequate soil moisture. They tend to produce a significant amounts of thatch and generally do require periodic dethatching. Diseases that can cause severe damage the fine fescues include leaf spot, red thread, and dollar spot.

Creeping red fescue produces rhizomes, thus, allowing it to fill in thin areas of turf and to make good recovery from the injury. This species has good seedling vigor when they are compared with hard and sheep fescues. Chewings fescue lacks strong rhizome development but has increased great tolerance for low mowing. Hard fescue has received much attention in recent years for its tolerance of low fertility soils and drought conditions. It has a dark green color and good density once they are established. The major disadvantage of hard fescue is its relatively slow germination and rate of establishment in a lawn. Sheep fescue is a bunch-type grass used primarily in low maintenance situations you might find. Sheep fescue is used the least of the turf type fine fescue options.

  • Tall Fescue (Festuca arundinacea)

Tall fescue is a persistent and durable plant that forms acceptable turf for residential home lawns, grounds, parks, playgrounds, and athletic fields. It is commonly used in low maintenance situations such as utility areas, highway medians, airstrips, and county fairgrounds. Many new and improved varieties have fine texture, higher tiller densities, and a darker green color than the coarse textured, light-green varieties as 'Kentucky 31' and 'Alta.' Tall fescue is considered by many individuals to be incompatible with the finer textured and darker green Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescues. Tall fescue may be fine in a mixture with fine-textured turfgrass species because it will tend to form coarse textured clumps in an otherwise uniform stand.

Tall fescue is primarily a bunch type of turfgrass that occasionally produces short rhizomes. It's somewhat slow to establish extensive root systems and has only fair recovery potential for turf. This species is the most heat and drought tolerant of the cool season turfgrasses available. The increased drought tolerance is a function of its ability to produce a very deep root system. Tall fescue performs well in open, sunny areas and is surprisingly moderately shade tolerant. It is less suited to heavily shaded conditions than the fine fescues are, but is more shade tolerant than Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. Tall fescue is best suited for well drained soils.

Tall fescue thrives under moderate fertility levels. The most serious disease of tall fescue is only brown patch. This disease occurs in the hot, humid months of summer and is especially severe when the turf is heavily over fertilized with nitrogen. Other possible damaging diseases of tall fescue are net blotch, red thread, rust, and Pythium blight.

 

  • Bentgrasses (Agrostis spp.)
    • Creeping bentgrass (Agrostis palustris)
    • Colonial bentgrass (Agrostis tenuis)

Bentgrasses are fine to medium textured grasses that have a light to medium green in color. These species are used primarily only for golf course greens and fairways, bowling greens, and grass tennis courts. They are not suitable as lawn grasses and are not compatible in mixtures with other cool season grasses. Creeping bentgrass, the most commonly used bentgrass, spreads by stolons and is a very prolific thatch producer. As a group, the bentgrasses are cold and heat tolerant but only moderately wear and drought tolerant unfortunately. Growth is optimum during the spring and fall seasons of the year. These grasses tolerate acidic and wet soils better than the other cool season grasses.

Bentgrasses are very susceptible to injury from a number of herbicides, making weed control very difficult. They are also highly susceptible to a number of diseases including dollar spot, brown patch, Pythium blight and take all patch.

Bentgrasses will tolerate extremely low mowing heights provided that proper management practices are followed. Low cut bentgrasses require irrigation, fungicide and insecticide spray applications, mechanical brushing and thinning, and periodical topdressing to prevent thatch formation damaging the turf.

  • Zoysiagrass - (Zoysia japonica)

Zoysia grass is a warm season species that makes optimum growth during high temperature periods during the growing season. It can form an attractive turf in the southern portions of the state and is used primarily for residential home lawns. Zoysiagrass has a medium to fine leaf texture and tends to have a light to medium green in color. This species produces extensive, thick, stolons that will spread rapidly. Because of its prolific stolon production, zoysiagrass has good recuperative potential, however, it may also spread into areas where it is not wanted.

Although drought tolerant when established, zoysiagrass performs best under moderate moisture levels on very fertile, well limed soils. It will not handle poorly drained soils. Its green color is completely lost with fall frosts, and plants remain dormant until late spring. Due to its relatively short growing season, zoysiagrass is suggested only for the southern most regions of Ohio.

Zoysiagrass performs well under low rates of nitrogen. The best time to fertilize this species is late spring to mid summer. Zoysiagrass should be mowed at lower heights than most other turfgrasses used in Canal Fulton, Ohio. Because zoysiagrass produces extensive amounts of thatch, dethatching should take place on a yearly basis.

Meyer zoysiagrass must be propagated vegetatively by planting sod plugs or sprigs. Development rate depends on plug size, competition from other grasses and weeds, and the growing environment it is in. Quickest establishment is with using 4 inch diameter plugs planted in late spring or early summer. Three to six years may be required to develop a solid stand of Meyer zoysiagrass and requires patience. Cost of establishment of this grass is very high.

 

Call Today for a Free estimate! (330)933-2222

Flea and Tick control for Kent, Ohio

Fleas and Ticks 

Fleas and ticks are two of the most frequent pet care concerns for Americans. Kent residents remember prevention is the best defense against these parasites. It is important to be able to recognize the signs and symptoms of fleas and ticks so you can help your pets.

Fleas are the most common external parasite to plague pets. They are wingless insects that feed on blood and they can jump up to two feet high.

Fleas can live for as few as 2 weeks or as long as 12 months and during this time they can produce millions of offspring.

Pets and Fleas

Symptoms of dogs with fleas.

Fleas are most commonly noticed on a dog’s belly, the base of the tail and the head. Common symptoms of fleas on dogs are:

  • Flea dirt in a dog’s coat that looks like a small dark grains of sand
  • Eggs that look like tiny white grains
  • Allergic dermatitis
  • Excessive scratching or biting at skin
  • Hair loss
  • Scabs and hot spots
  • Pale gums
  • Tapeworms

Symptom cats have of fleas

If you see your cat scratching often then invest in a fine tooth comb and run it through their fur. Pay attention to the neck and the base of the tail when looking for the fleas.

  • Flea dirt in a dog’s coat that looks like a small dark grains of sand
  • Flea eggs that look like tiny white grains
  • Itchy and irritated skin
  • Excessive scratching
  • Chewing and licking
  • Hair loss
  • Tapeworms
  • Pale lips or gums

The Causes of Fleas

  • Fleas are easily brought in from the outside.
  • Fleas thrive in warm and humid climates at temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees.
  • Adult fleas spend most of their lives on pets laying eggs in the fur.
  • These eggs drop out everywhere and hatch into new adult fleas. Then in turn find their living host either human or animal.

Flea facts

  • Fleas can consume 15 times their own body weight in blood, which causes anemia or a significant amount of blood loss over time.
  • This is especially problematic in young puppies or kittens. When an inadequate number of red blood cells can be life threatening to your pet.
  • Some pets have a sensitivity to the saliva of fleas, which can cause an allergic reaction known as flea allergy dermatitis.

Flea treatments

Consult your local Kent area vet if you suspect your pet has fleas. It is important that all of your pets are treated for fleas and that the environment is treated as well. Once your vet confirms fleas, a treatment plan may include the following:

  • Topical or oral treatment on the pet
  • Thorough cleaning of your home including carpets, rugs, bedding and upholstery. Severe cases may require using a spray or a fogger in the home.
  • Lawn treatments will be needed so your pet will not keep getting re-infected every time it goes outside.

Flea Prevention

  • Use a flea comb on your pet and wash their bedding once a week.
  • Keep the outside of your house free of organic debris, such as rake clippings and leaves, and always remember that fleas like to hide in dark, moist, shady areas.
  • The best prevention is to keep regular lawn treatments applied outside during flea season.

 

Ticks

Ticks are parasites that feed on the blood of unlucky animals, such as cats and dogs. Like mites and spiders, ticks are arachnids. Although their presence may not even be noticed by a host, ticks can transmit many diseases.


Tick Transmission

  • Most species of ticks require blood meals from a host for its survival.
  • Ticks bury their head into a host when they bite and then gorge themselves on blood.
  • Ticks tend to be most active in late spring and summer and live in brush or grass, where they can attach to a host. Which makes cats and dogs a prime candidate.
  • Can be transferred from pets coming into the household from outside.
  • Ticks prefer to attach close to the head, neck, ears or feet, but can be found elsewhere also.
  • Ticks are particularly prominent in warm climates and certain wooded areas of the Northeast.

How do I find out if my pet has ticks?

  • Most ticks are visible by eye. Ticks are often the size of a pinhead before they bite, and are not noticed until they swell with blood.
  • While these parasites rarely cause obvious discomfort, it is a good idea to check your pet often if you live in an area where ticks are prevalent.
  • Run your hands carefully over your pet every time he comes inside. Especially check inside and around the ears, head and feet.

Complications that can be associated with ticks

  • Blood loss
  • Anemia
  • Tick paralysis
  • Skin irritation and infection
  • Lyme Disease
    • Lyme disease is an infection than can affect humans, dogs, and cats.
    • Its primary carrier is the deer tick. They can attach to a dog or human and transmit the bacteria that cause the disease.
    • Signs of Lyme disease include depression, swelling of the lymph nodes, loss of appetite, fever, swollen, painful joints and even kidney failure.
    • Lyme disease is mostly effective treated with antibiotics.
    • With prompt and proper treatment, your pet’s condition should start to improve within a couple of days.

 

Tick treatment

If you do find a tick on your pet, it is important to take care when preforming the removal. Any contact with the tick’s blood can potentially transmit the infection to your pet or even to you. Prompt removal is necessary by following these step-by-step tick removal instructions:

Step 1: Preparation

  • Put on latex gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s infected area.
  • Because throwing the tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, you should prepare a  jar containing rubbing alcohol to put a tick in after removal. This allows you to hold it for veterinary testing.
  • If possible find a partner to help you distract and comfort your pet and hold them still during removal.

Step 2: Remove

  • Using a pair of tweezers, grab the tick as close to the animals skin as possible.
  • Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure and place the tick in your jar.
  • Don't twist or jerk on the tick. This may leave parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate ineffective fluids.
  • Do not squeeze or smash the body of the tick, because its fluids may contain infection.

Step 3: Disinfect & watch

  • Disinfect the bite area and wash your hands with soap and water immediately, even though you were wearing gloves.
  • Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or discard them.
  • Monitor the bite area over the next few weeks for any signs of infection, look for redness or inflammation.
  • If infection occur bring your pet and your jarred tick to your vet.

Tick prevention

  • Many products on the market that treat fleas also kill ticks. Speak to your vet about the best product.
  • Ensure a tick-free lawn by mowing it regularly, removing tall weeds and making it inhospitable. Prevention is key and regular lawn treatments applied outside during tick season is a great prevention also.

 

Ready to find out more about flea and tick control?

Call Akron Canton Lawn Care Now for your Free Estimate on any of our lawn care services
(330) 933-2222 or click the Contact Us button to send us an email.

Medina Ohio Asks: Is this Crabgrass?

Crabgrass Defined 

For an annual weed, crabgrass certainly gets much attention. Crabgrass can turn what was a great looking lawn into a nightmare in the matter of just a few weeks. It grows from seed each year when the soil warms to about 55 or higher for at least a week in the spring but grows most rapidly during the heat of summer. The seed will usually germinate faster in bare soil areas or places near sidewalks or other places where the earth will warm up more quickly. A thick and healthy dense lawn is usually not where crabgrass will be most found because it does not compete well with taller plants or shade.

 

Crabgrass has coarser grass blades than typical lawn grasses and are also usually lighter green in color so the crabgrass plants are quite noticeable. Crabgrass usually has a low growing habit that spreads out along the ground. It will cover a somewhat circular area up to a foot wide but it can also grow up to 2 feet tall in some situations. As the stems arch over and grow along the ground, they will often produce roots at the nodes along the stems. It is very difficult to pull out a mature crabgrass plant because of all of those extra roots that the plant produces. After the stems elongate they begin flowering, usually starting about the beginning of August and continuing until a hard frost kills the plant. The flower heads looks like a hand with the fingers pointing upward. Seeds will ripen within a few weeks with each individual plant capable of producing 1,500 seeds.

Grassy Weed or Broadleaf

Control of crabgrass in Medina lawns is of primary concern for most homeowners that spend lots of money each year trying to prevent crabgrass from growing in their lawns. There are several active ingredients that are effective in crabgrass prevention, but one should check the label to be sure that products they are applying is in fact for crabgrass prevention and not for the control of broadleaf weeds. Those products will have no effect in controlling crabgrass. Commercial lawn care companies may also be able to apply the crabgrass prevention products alone, not in combination with a fertilizer but those products are usually not available to home owners.

Prevention

Crabgrass prevention products are usually quite effective if they are applied at the right time. People often refer to the time when lilacs or Forsythia are blooming as an indicator as to the proper time to apply the product to their turf. If you apply it too early or not enough, it may lose its effectiveness before the end of the summer, allowing for a late flush of crabgrass to emerge and grow. But, if you wait too long in the spring to apply it, you might miss the first wave of seedling germination and still have a major crabgrass problem. Once the seedlings are up and growing these products will not kill the seedlings. Crabgrass preventers will also prevent other kinds of weed seeds from germinating, like the grass seed that you might apply that spring or summer to fill in bare areas or to thicken and existing grass. If you plan to do some seeding, do it late in the fall to avoid problems with spring applied crabgrass preventers or simply choose not use them at all in those areas.

There are a very few post emergence crabgrass killing herbicides available. They can be effective but they need to be applied shortly after the crabgrass seedlings have emerged from the lawn. Once the plants begin to produce multiple stems control is greatly reduced which will make you unhappy because post emergent control is very expensive to apply.  Another very important aspect of crabgrass control is to maintain a healthy lawn in Medina that is properly fertilized, watered and mowed.

 

Ready to find out more about Crabgrass?

Call Akron Canton Lawn Care Now for your Free Estimate on any of our lawn care services (330) 933-2222 or click the Contact Us button to send us an email.

Is Yellow Nutsedge Inundating Your Copley, Ohio Lawn?

The Invasion Of Yellow Nutsedge

Yellow nutsedge is a major weed that used to be only found in the South, but has made its way North. It is a grass like weed in the sedge family with top growth that reaches 8 to 30 inches tall. Yellow nutsedge has an extensive underground network of basal bulbs, roots, thin fibrous rhizomes, and tubers. The leaves are mostly basal and are bright green to yellow green and bears the inflorescence flower heads. The inflorescence are yellow to brown and consists of spikes borne on 1 to 3 inches of stalks unequal in length.

Dormancy in yellow nutsedge is broken by chilling at 40–50°F for several weeks. Sprouting will begin as soil temperatures rise above 55°F. Tubers can remain dormant and survive up to 4 years.

In Copley, Ohio Yellow nutsedge begins active growth in late spring. A rhizome emerges from the tuber and grows toward the surface of the soil. When the rhizome receives a light stimulus a basal bulb will then form. The shoot that formed will consist of a cluster of basal leaves from this bulb. Then a fibrous root system will develop from basal bulbs and rhizomes.

 

Plant development

Yellow nutsedge remains attached to the mother tuber for up to 10-12 weeks. Within four weeks after initial shoot emerges new rhizomes emerge from the basal bulb and grow up to 20 inches laterally. This will happen over and over again forming new basal bulbs and daughter plants. Yellow nutsedge will continue to spread exponentially in the absence of competition or control measures and will also spread by seed developed in mature plants.

In temperate zone populations of yellow nutsedge, shortening day length in late summer triggers flowering and tuber production. When day length decreases to about 14 hours, rhizome tips begin to form tubers rather than new daughter plants. While top growth slows, prolific tuber production continue to form until frost kills them. Tubers will form as deep as 18 inches.

Where does it grow?

Yellow nutsedge thrives in moist to wet conditions and can tolerate flooding. It can be incredibly prolific in temperate climates with high moisture soils. A single tuber has been observed to give rise to 1,900 shoots and 6,900 tubers within one year in Minnesota and 1,700–3,000 shoots and 19–20 thousand tubers in irrigated fields in Oregon forming a dense patch 6 feet across. Tuber dry weight reached an equivalent of about 4 tons per acre.

Yellow nutsedge tubers are killed by exposure for 1–2 days to temperatures of 113–122°F or below 20°F. Most tubers within 2 inches of the soil surface are winter killed but the weed readily emerges from tubers located 4 inches or deeper where they are protected from temperatures extremes. Yellow nutsedge has successfully spread into southeastern Canada, where snow cover has protected tubers from winterkill.

Yellow nutsedge can tolerate moderate shade with little decrease in growth or tuber production, whereas dense shade reduces total biomass by more than half. Although the weed compensates for shade by growing even taller, and can form some tubers even under 94% shade, competition for light is recognized as an important tactic that can enhance the efficacy.

Yellow nutsedge can form viable seeds by cross-pollination. As many as 1,500 viable seeds per plant and the seedlings  can establish successfully only when the soil surface remains continuously moist.

As you can see Yellow nutsedge is not a weed to ignore in your Copley lawn and should be treated immediately. A delay in the treatment can become catastrophic very quickly.

 

Mountains or Mole Hills? Identifying moles and voles in Akron, Ohio.

Moles and Voles in The Lawn

 

Moles and voles are indeed a pest that cause many problems when they live in our lawns in Akron OH and gardens with their tunnels.

They makes tunnels all through out your landscape very quickly once they are established. You will also see mounds of dirt where they exit. Many times you will only feel lumps and the lump is actually a tunnel. In mulched beds they can be extremely destructive, the tunnels will actually raise up the soil under a plant as the pest passes through, making an unsightly bed. Sometimes young plants in a flower bed will literally disappear below the soil surface. In the lawn other than the obvious ridges and hill mounds that make the lawn unsightly and kill the lawn. Even deeper tunnels can kill the roots of the turf to make quite the design in your lawn.

Other than having similar names, voles and moles have very little in common. They are two entirely different pests, yet very often confused. Moles are better known pest, but it may actually be a vole causing the damage especially in your gardens and flower beds.

Appearance: Is it a mole or a vole?

Moles are generally 5 to 7 inches in length, gray to dark brown in color. They are not rodents and have a long, naked snout, no external ears and can tunnel 1 foot per minute. Their eyes are buried in their fur to protect them. They are often seen because they live and feed underground and like moist or loose soil. Since they do not eat plants, their landscape carnage is really the incidental damage of tunnels  dug in lawns searching for food. However, tunnels may cause damage to plants when they create paths around root systems. Another objection from homeowners when mowing the lawn is dirt that is mounded up in a rounded volcanic shape known as a molehill.

Voles are indeed a rodent looking much like mice with shorter tails. Voles are usually 5 to 7 inches long also and may be black, gray or brown. Voles have eyes and ears that can be easily seen. They can either burrow or use old mole tunnels. Between burrow openings, they will create surface runways about the size of a broomstick that you can see. They stay in nests above ground, coming out to eat day and night.

 

Diet and Habits

The mole’s diet is almost exclusively earthworms and grubs, with very few insects. Voles are plant eaters or herbivores. They feed on grasses, flowers, vegetables, bulbs and seeds. In the winter when food is hard to come by, they may eat bark from trees and shrubs.

Moles are not social mammals, seeking each other out at only mating time. There are generally 4 to 7 per litter and their life span is 2 to 3 years.

Voles are prolific reproducers that can quickly colonize your entire yard. Their life span is only about 16 months, so they have to make up for it by having 3 to 6 young at a time with only a 21 day gestation period. Because they reproduce so very quickly, eat so many different things, and are good at hiding, they can do much damage before you figure out the problem.

The only beneficial thing someone could say about a mole that they consume large numbers of grubs. Although in the quest for those grubs they do severe damage to the lawn which is just counter productive. A vole has zero arguments on any benefits.

The methods of control in Akron Ohio for both moles and voles is quite similar, but there is no one & done solution.

 

Problems with Moles or Voles?

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(330) 933-2222 or click the Contact Us button to send us an email.

Humic vs. Fulvic Treatments In Doylestown

The benefits of Humic and Fulvic Acid applications to your lawn in Doylestown Ohio.

Humic acid helps the soil retain nutrients for your lawn in Doyleston OH. They will not absorbed into the grass, but instead stay in the soil and unlock nutrients that were not available before to the grass. Plus the carbon they add to the soil catches future nutrients much better that makes a food pantry for the grass. So simply Humic acid makes great soil. Fulvic Acids are very tiny are able enter the plant. They help the grass deliver the nutrients from the soil to the plant. It is like boosting the digestive system of the plant.

Humic acid is a natural soil conditioner that acts as an organic binding agent and is a microbial stimulant. It has a unique carbon make up which does include a high concentration of trace minerals and organic acids. Humic acid enhances the grasses ability to take in essential nutrients and improves soil structure dramatically.

 

Humic acid benefits for your lawn in Doylestown Ohio are:

    • Increases added soil carbon
    • Improves overall plant health of grass
    • Improves germination and viability of the seed
    • Chelates macro and micro nutrients to increase availability to the plant for a long period of time
    • Increases cation exchange capacity
    • Improves soil structure for better water movement
    • Stimulates beneficial microorganisms, which will improve long-term soil pH

 

Fulvic vs. Humic acid

Fulvic acid is able to penetrate the cell where humic acid can't. The Fulvic acids have higher oxygen content but lower carbon contents than the Humic acids. Fulvic acids also contain more functional groups of an acidic nature which is good for the plant. Humic acid is not soluble in water under acidic conditions but is soluble always in higher pH values. Fulvic acid is soluble in water under any pH conditions.

 

Ready to find out more?

Call Akron Canton Lawn Care Now for your Free Estimate on any of our lawn care services
(330) 933-2222 or click the Contact Us button to send us an email.